My favorite place to feel the pulse of modern Belgium is Antwerp, the port city north of Brussels. It’s an honest, what-you-see-is-what-you-get place with a true sense of local identity.

From the rooftop terrace of MAS, Antwerp’s huge high-rise arts centre, you get a bird’s-eye view of the spectacular redevelopment of the city’s historic dockyard. It’s an inspiring sight ...

The ultimate travel guide to Antwerp, Belgium, including everywhere to dine, stay, drink and relax in the Belgian port city.